Oaxaca City Guide

Santo Domingo

Perhaps the most iconic building from Oaxaca’s wide selection, the Church of Santo Domingo is a stunning example of Baroque architecture and somewhat of a hub of social activity to the north of the city’s centre. The church’s grounds are home to a collection of quaint courtyards and rooms that were once the monastery. The city’s history is palpable in the area around Santo Domingo, with cobbled streets and ornate facades lining every street. What were once colonial homes have since made way for upmarket cafes and charming galleries that satiate the wants and needs of the city’s tourists and middle classes. In front of the church are a number of stalls selling high quality handmade trinkets as well as all of the typical Mexican souvenirs.

Behind the Church of Santo Domingo are the botanical gardens, which aren't like most gardens of its type but instead house a collection of flora endemic to the surrounding desertous climate, including towering cacti alongside tranquil waterpieces. The gorgeous squares at the rear of the church also house the Oaxacan Museum of Cultures. The museum covers the entire history of the state, drawing parallels between past and present to outline the cultural influences of the citizen’s predecessors. A short walk from this cluster of cultural delights are a collection of unpretentious street food stalls selling all of the region’s tastiest specialities, including mole, a dish associated solely with the state of Oaxaca.

The Zocalo Area

The zocalo, or town square, is somewhat of a focal point for locals in Oaxaca. Crowds of Oaxacans flock to the area once siesta time is over and the day cools down, making for a family friendly atmosphere and a real sense of community. The square itself has all the hallmarks of any great Latin plaza, with atmospheric archways lining the sides as furniture from various restaurants and bars spills out onto the square in a sociable buzz under the warming glow of the setting sun.The square itself is the best place in the city to go for a sociable drink in the evening. Occasionally the bandstand, which acts as a centrepiece for the square, plays host to traditional Mexican bands, who serenade the crowds with their lively tunes.

Within three blocks of the zocalo to the east and north respectively are the Textile Museum and Contemporary Art Museum. The former is considered one of the greatest sights in the city, displaying the mastery of Mexican textile construction in both its historic and contemporary forms. The museum is set in a gorgeous refurbished mansion, which once functioned as part of the orchard of the local convent. Exploring the building is an experience in itself, let alone admiring the textile treasures that are displayed within. Set within the canvas white walls of a restored colonial building is Oaxaca’s Contemporary Art Museum, displaying an eclectic array of work by local artists. The museum offers an insight into the ways in which the Mexican art scene is developing in the modern era. To the south of the zocalo are two indoor markets. To the north is Mercado Benito Juarez, which sells locally made trinkets and textiles. Further south is Mercado 20 de Noviembre which sells all manner of Oaxacan street food.

Jalatlaco

Perhaps Oaxaca’s best kept secret, Jalatlaco is a thoroughly picturesque little neighbourhood found a short walk to the northeast of Centro. The area appears as though paused in a more peaceful time, with barely any traffic running through its network of picturesque cobblestone streets and colonial housing painted in every vibrant colour imaginable. It is urban Mexico at its most genuinely beautiful and authentically charming.

At the heart of Jalatlaco is the Church of San Matias Jalatlaco, whose simple yet charismatic stone facade is almost symbolic of the neighbourhood in which it stands - quaint and peaceful. The laid back charm of Jalatlaco has led to the neighbourhood’s inevitable development into Oaxaca’s most artsy region, attracting a crowd of alternative thinking individuals who have in turn morphed many of the area’s shops and eateries into a more ethical breed of establishment. Jalatlaco is the place to go for organic produce, vegan restaurants and environmentally friendly cafes. The increase in edgy residents has also resulted in a number of beautiful murals with a strong Mexican influence gracing the front of many of Jalatlaco’s buildings. This modern influence on the area is not to say that it is lacking in genuine Mexican flare, as many of the local women sell traditional street food outside their front doors.

Reforma

To the north of Oaxaca’s centre lies Reforma, which is much like a city in and of itself. Trading the historic structures of Oaxaca for the more modern builds that one would associate with the more prosperous neighbourhoods of Mexico City. The area is wealthier than most in Oaxaca and this becomes immediately evident when wandering through the area’s wider streets, lined with international eateries, artistic bakeries and niche cafes aplenty.

Unlike the Santo Domingo and Zocalo areas, Reforma tends to be relatively tourist-free, as the neighbourhood is as off the beaten track as it is modern. This in turn can lead to a more genuine experience of Mexican life. To the north of Reforma is an interesting landmark in the form of the Fountain of the Eight Regions, which has a traditionally dressed statue for each of the eight indigenous cultures whose influence has helped sculpt the city into the place that it is today.

Exploring the ruins of Monte Alban

An absolute must for anyone visiting Oaxaca. The ruins of Monte Alban are amongst the most underrated in all of Mexico. Situated on the peak of a hill overlooking the city to the east and valleys to the west, Monte Alban is a lot quieter than sites such as Chichen Itza or Teotihuacan but the same mystical aura resonates from each and every ancient brick on site. The site also offers the opportunity to climb the steps of its ruinous pyramids to gain an aerial view of the entire complex and the rolling valleys beyond.

Monte Alban dates back to the 8th century BC and was inhabited by both Zapotec and Mixtec civilisations during its prime. Two opposing platforms sit at each end of the complex, with a collection of palaces, altars and a ball court making up the collection of structures in between. The vast green spaces between each of Monte Alban’s ruinous structures are both a calming influence and allow one to appreciate the scale of the city at the time of its construction. Due to the hilltop location, smooth greenery and extraordinary preservation of the buildings, parallels could be drawn between Monte Alban and the legendary ruins of Machu Picchu in Peru. There is also an enthralling museum at the entrance, displaying various artefacts recovered from Monte Alban during its excavation.

Relaxing in a clifftop pool at Hierve el Agua

60km to the southeast of Oaxaca travellers can find the mind boggling natural spectacle that is Hierve el Agua. Set amongst the emerald valley slopes is a geological formation consisting of shelves of rock that resemble the tumbling motion of a waterfall that has become frozen in time. From a distance, you would be forgiven for mistaking the sight for a genuine cascading body of water, such are the similarities in appearance. Formed through the gradual accumulation of minerals from the water’s high calcium carbonate levels, the falls have followed a similar process to that of stalagmites and stalactites over millennia.

At the top of the “falls” are two pools, one natural and one artificial, which are arguably Hierve el Agua’s greatest draw. Whilst its name literally translates as ‘boiling water’, the temperature in the pools in fact sits pleasantly in the mid-20s (centigrade). This makes for a swimming experience that is both soothing and atmospheric, as gradually gliding through the warm waters takes swimmers to the cliff’s edge, offering panoramic views over the valley below. A solitary withered tree lies at the edge of the upper pool, accentuating the overall drama of the experience. There are changing rooms at the site along with a number of stalls selling simple snacks.

Learning about Zapotec culture at the ruins of Mitla

The second most important set of ruins in Oaxaca after Monte Alban, the structures of Mitla are found in the centre of a small municipality of the same name. Evidence suggests that Mitla was a religious site of colossal significance for the ancient Zapotecs, with priests carrying out numerous human sacrifices here during its prime, and an indication of the importance of death in Mesoamerican culture, as multiple carved tombs can be found throughout the site.The geometric wall carvings throughout the site are mesmeric but perhaps the most important feature of Mitla are the mosaics that cover some of the walls - a decorative feature that is unmatched everywhere else in Mexico. The mosaics depict the happenings in various myths and legends that were central to the Zapotec culture at the time.

Thanks to the dry conditions of Oaxaca state, the entire site has been remarkably well preserved. Another eye-catching feature of the ruins is the Church of San Pedro, rising from the crumbled base of the Zapotec site. Built by the Spanish during the 16th century directly on top of a pre-Columbian base in an oppressive manner akin to that of Coricancha in Cusco. Some of the greatest mosaics on site are found in the Grupo de las Columnas, a collection of larger buildings with giant columns for roof support. Mitla is a site of tangible historical significance, with a looming suggestion of the brutal culture of those that held it in such high esteem.

Admiring the gnarled spectacle of the Tule Tree

A popular stop on the way to Mitla is El Arbol de Tule (The Tule Tree), which sits within the grounds of a churchyard in the picturesque town of Santa Maria del Tule. The reason that the Tule Tree attracts so many visitors is due to its incredible squat shape, which has earned it the title of the widest tree on the planet - measuring 14.05m in diameter yet only 35.4m in height. At roughly 1,500 years old, the Tule Tree is almost as old as the nearby Zapotec ruins of Mitla. An incredible thought when considering the incredible array of cultures that have existed during the tree’s lifespan.

One of the primary draws of the Tule Tree is the marvelous way in which its gnarled bark seems to create images in front of your very eyes. Visitors claim to have seen the shapes of animals, human faces and mystical creatures within the twisted nooks and creases of the tree’s trunk. Originally believed to have been multiple trees that became entwined over time due to its exceptional size, DNA tests disproved this theory. It is difficult to believe that this natural wonder is still growing...

Joining the festivities during the Dia de los Muertos festival

Whilst it may seem logical for Mexico to be the focal point of the nation’s Day of the Dead celebrations, however the south of Mexico is considered by most to be the best place to experience the annual festival. Festivities in Oaxaca see the streets flood with locals paying respects to their passed loved ones by way of a joyous celebration of their lives. Whilst it may seem an odd way to respect the dead, the three day festival - which runs from October 31st to 2nd November - is held under the belief that ancestors return to the land of the living for three days each year and this is a chance to show your respects and enjoy their presence.

Highlights of the festival include visiting cemeteries at night time to breath in the peaceful respect shown by the locals’ shrines which glow with the soothing warmth of countless candles. During the day, locals dress up in all manner of costumes, often resembling skeletal figures, and parade through the city unannounced. Once evening falls, these parades morph into peaceful candlelit processions. The city is covered in gorgeously presented shrines during the entirety of the festival, adorned with beautiful flowers and gifts for the departed, including the iconic sugar skulls which have become so closely associated with Dia de los Muertos. It is an incredible experience that shows the city, and the Mexican people, in an entirely different light.

If you wish to visit Oaxaca during the festival please contact our Tailor-made Team.

Sampling the local produce at a mezcal tasting

Mezcal is the less renowned cousin of Mexico’s most famous spirit - tequila. Made using an extremely similar process, this agave-based liquor has slipped under most people’s radars until recently. It is a new world that is gradually being revealed to the rest of the planet and Oaxaca is at the centre of that world. Similar in taste, mezcal has more smoky flavour and actually tends to be more popular amongst locals. Mezcalerias are found scattered throughout the city, full of locals knocking back shot after shot of the moreish beverage.

Going to a mezcaleria in general is a fun experience that cannot be missed, but to truly appreciate the nuances of mezcal we recommend attending one of the tasting sessions on offer. During these sessions you will not only be treated to an array of different mezcals but also learn about the history behind the lesser known spirit and the process by which it is produced. Understanding the subtle intricacies of the distilling process helps one appreciate the underlying flavours and meticulous process that make mezcal so popular throughout Mexico.

If you wish to include a mezcal tasting on your Tailor-made trip to Mexico, simply contact a member of our Tailor-made Team.

Top Alternative Cities

If you are a city person and a traveller, you probably already have more than a few of the world’s capitals ticked off. There’s just as much to discover in cities that often aren’t under the spotlight. Here’s our list of our top alternative cities.

Mexican ruins and their street food counterparts

Fascinating ancient ruins and mouth wateringly delicious street food are arguably the two main pillars of every great trip to Mexico. Some travellers may have tasted all of Mexico’s most iconic dishes but aren’t too hot on their Mayan history. Others might be keen experts on Mexico’s past but haven’t dabbled in some of the nation’s favourite dishes. From the obvious favourites to the more obscure phenomena, parallels can be (tenuously) drawn between these two sets of Mexican favourites.